{"id":15,"date":"2016-07-16T19:04:04","date_gmt":"2016-07-16T18:04:04","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.hannaby.com\/?page_id=15"},"modified":"2019-07-24T01:58:24","modified_gmt":"2019-07-24T00:58:24","slug":"wivamac-lathe-modifications","status":"publish","type":"page","link":"https:\/\/www.hannaby.com\/wordpress\/wivamac-lathe-modifications\/","title":{"rendered":"Wivamac Lathe Modifications and Adjustments"},"content":{"rendered":"
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Introduction<\/h3>\n

My first Wivamac lathe was a DB1000 vario, purchased in the days before they offered a remote control so being that way inclined, I made my own. The “mark 1” prototype is still in operation somewhere in the Czech Republic as far as I know! More about the remote later. The inverter drives used on the “vario” range are general purpose controllers and as such, have a bewildering array of parameters that can be changed to suit the operation in hand. With a little experimentation (and reading the manual!), I found a few key parameters that can be tweaked to make the turning experience that little bit easier.
\nFollowing my initial experience on the DB1000 vario, I upgraded to a DB1200 vario and applied the same principles to this one too. My DB1200 has a similar remote control to the one I made for the DB100 apart from one feature. Having made the first one “smart” enough to switch control when it was plugged in, I found that I never used the lathe without it so with the “mark 2” I dispensed with the complication of the plug and automatic switching and went for a hard wired remote with a manual switch (just in case!).<\/p>\n

Disclaimer<\/h3>\n

If you are undertaking any physical modification to the electronics on your lathe, make sure you are competent to do so. Otherwise, consult someone who is. You may invalidate your warranty by making modifications so please consult your supplier before proceeding.
\nSome of the modifications described here alter the acceleration and deceleration times and if used incorrectly, can potentially lead to your chuck unscrewing itself and large pieces of wood leaving your lathe at speed so PLEASE DON’T DO IT UNLESS YOU KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING!
\nBefore making any parameter changes, note the original value so you can change back if required.
\nAfter making any changes to the parameters, test the lathe thoroughly in forward and reverse without any wood attached.
\nThe bottom line – any changes you make are done at your own risk.<\/p>\n

The Super Deluxe Wivamac Remote Control<\/h3>\n

I still like to think I thought up the remote control option before Wivamac did! I certainly had a working model long before they did. My main reason for making a remote control unit was because I disliked bending down to use the existing controls. The remote control box put the controls where I wanted them – anywhere I could stick the magnetic box!
\nMy design of the remote control gives forward\/reverse direction, speed control and emergency stop. The latter comes in very handy when hollowing because the remote can be placed on the bed, right under where I am holding the tool for quick access. Also, no matter which way the control is switched, the emergency stop on the main control box always remains active. What use is an emergency stop that doesn’t stop when you hit it? The modification to the lathe is relatively straight forward – just a couple of holes for the switch, cable and terminal block and that’s it. Here are some photos of mine to give you an idea of what it is like. The box is diecast to survive being dropped and the potentiometer and switches are sealed and should be dustproof.<\/p>\n